Smoked Chorizo
Yield: 4 lb
Ingredients
Amount
Procedure
U.S.
Metric
Pork butt
2.5 lb
1.1 kg
Cut the pork butt and fat into large dice. Chill in the freezer.
Pork fat
6 oz
168 g
Tinted cure mix (TCM)
1/8 oz
3 g
Combine the TCM, salt, pepper, garlic paste, paprika, red pepper flakes, oregano, and wine. Add to the meat and fat and mix to combine. Grind the meat 2 times through a medium die.
Kosher salt
1.5 oz
42 g
Pepper
1/2 oz
14 g
Garlic paste
1/2 oz
14 g
Spanish paprika
1/3 oz
21 g
Crushed red pepper flakes
1/8 oz
3 g
Oregano, dried
1/4 oz
7 g
Red wine
3.5 oz
105 mL
Hog casings, thoroughly washed
as needed
as needed
Stuff the meat into the prepared hog casings. Hang for 24 hours to form a pellicle.
Smoke for about 3 hours at 120°F (49°C). Raise the temperature to 150°F (66°C) and bring the internal temperature to 145°F (63°C).
Yield: 4 lb
Ingredients
Amount
Procedure
U.S.
Metric
Pork butt
2.5 lb
1.1 kg
Cut the pork butt and fat into large dice. Chill in the freezer.
Pork fat
6 oz
168 g
Tinted cure mix (TCM)
1/8 oz
3 g
Combine the TCM, salt, pepper, garlic paste, paprika, red pepper flakes, oregano, and wine. Add to the meat and fat and mix to combine. Grind the meat 2 times through a medium die.
Kosher salt
1.5 oz
42 g
Pepper
1/2 oz
14 g
Garlic paste
1/2 oz
14 g
Spanish paprika
1/3 oz
21 g
Crushed red pepper flakes
1/8 oz
3 g
Oregano, dried
1/4 oz
7 g
Red wine
3.5 oz
105 mL
Hog casings, thoroughly washed
as needed
as needed
Stuff the meat into the prepared hog casings. Hang for 24 hours to form a pellicle.
Smoke for about 3 hours at 120°F (49°C). Raise the temperature to 150°F (66°C) and bring the internal temperature to 145°F (63°C).
Bratwurst
Yield: 10 to 11 lb (4.5 to 5 kg)
Ingredient
Amount
Procedure
U.S.
Metric
Pork butt, 1-in. (2.5-cm) dice
7 lb
3.2 kg
Combine the pork, pork fat, sage, celery seed, mace, salt, and white pepper and chill well.
Progressively grind the meat through the 3/8-in (9-mm) plate, the 1/4-in (6-mm) plate, and the 1/8-in (3-mm) plate. Place the meat in the chilled bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Slowly mix on low speed for 1 minute. Add the ice water and mix on medium speed for 30 seconds, or until the sausage is sticky. Cook a test piece to taste and adjust the seasoning.
Stuff the meat into prepared casings and twist into 5-inch (13-centimeter) links.
Poach in simmering water (165°F [74°C]) for 10 to 15 minutes, to an internal temperature of 150°F [66°C]. Finish as required by grilling, sautéing, broiling, or baking, or chill and reserve for future use.
Pork fat, 1-in. (2.5-cm) dice
3 lb
1.3 kg
Rubbed sage
1/2 oz
14 g
Celery seed, ground
1/2 tsp
Mace, ground
1/2 tsp
Salt
4 oz
112 g
White pepper
3/4 oz
21 g
Ice water
16 oz
480 mL
Hog casings
6 ft
2.5 m
Yield: 10 to 11 lb (4.5 to 5 kg)
Ingredient
Amount
Procedure
U.S.
Metric
Pork butt, 1-in. (2.5-cm) dice
7 lb
3.2 kg
Combine the pork, pork fat, sage, celery seed, mace, salt, and white pepper and chill well.
Progressively grind the meat through the 3/8-in (9-mm) plate, the 1/4-in (6-mm) plate, and the 1/8-in (3-mm) plate. Place the meat in the chilled bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Slowly mix on low speed for 1 minute. Add the ice water and mix on medium speed for 30 seconds, or until the sausage is sticky. Cook a test piece to taste and adjust the seasoning.
Stuff the meat into prepared casings and twist into 5-inch (13-centimeter) links.
Poach in simmering water (165°F [74°C]) for 10 to 15 minutes, to an internal temperature of 150°F [66°C]. Finish as required by grilling, sautéing, broiling, or baking, or chill and reserve for future use.
Pork fat, 1-in. (2.5-cm) dice
3 lb
1.3 kg
Rubbed sage
1/2 oz
14 g
Celery seed, ground
1/2 tsp
Mace, ground
1/2 tsp
Salt
4 oz
112 g
White pepper
3/4 oz
21 g
Ice water
16 oz
480 mL
Hog casings
6 ft
2.5 m
BASIC FRESH PORK SAUSAGE
Yield: 5 lb 10 oz (2.8 kg)
INGREDIENTS
U.S.
METRIC
Chilled lean pork butt
3 lb
1.5 kg
Chilled fresh pork fatback with no rind
2 lb
1 kg
Kosher salt
2 oz
60 g
Seasonings (see variations)
as specified
as specified
Chilled water or other liquid
8 oz
250 mL
Casings (desired type)
as needed
as needed
PROCEDURE
DAY 1: FABRICATION AND PRE-SEASONING
Yield: 5 lb 10 oz (2.8 kg)
INGREDIENTS
U.S.
METRIC
Chilled lean pork butt
3 lb
1.5 kg
Chilled fresh pork fatback with no rind
2 lb
1 kg
Kosher salt
2 oz
60 g
Seasonings (see variations)
as specified
as specified
Chilled water or other liquid
8 oz
250 mL
Casings (desired type)
as needed
as needed
PROCEDURE
DAY 1: FABRICATION AND PRE-SEASONING
- 1. Cut the pork into about 2-in. (5-cm) dice.
- 2. Cut the fat into about 2-in. (5-cm) dice.
- 3. Mix the meat, fat, and the seasonings in a nonreactive container (A).
- 4. Cover the meats and refrigerate for 24 hours.
- 5. Spread the cured meat in a thin layer on a sheet tray and set the tray, uncovered, in a freezer about ½ hour, or until the exterior of the cubes stiffens slightly. Do not allow the meat to freeze solid.
- 6. Chill all parts of the grinder that will contact the meat (B). Refrigerate a mixer bowl and the paddle attachment.
- 7. Grind the meat mixture through the coarse die into a bowl placed in an ice bain-marie (C).
- 8. Grind the mixture through the medium die into the bowl.
- 9. Place the meat in the chilled mixer bowl. Using the chilled paddle, mix the ground meat on low speed for 2 minutes.
- 10. Turn the machine speed to medium power and slowly add the chilled liquid in a thin stream (D).
- 11. Blend the forcemeat until the liquid is completely absorbed and the mixture is smooth and sticky.
- 12. Perform a poach test (E).
- 13. Make any necessary adjustments to the forcemeat.
- 14. Use the forcemeat as bulk sausage, or encase the sausage as described on p. 491, using the type of casing and the desired shaping method (F).
- 15. Place the sausage in a freshly sanitized, covered container or in plastic bags.
Refrigerate up to 2 days, or freeze up to 3 months.
VARIATIONS
SAGE BREAKFAST SAUSAGE For seasonings, use ⅛ oz (4 g) dried ground sage, oz (2 g) dried thyme, ⅛ oz (4 g) granulated onion, and ⅓ oz (10 g) freshly ground black pepper. Form into patties or encase in sheep casings tied into 3-in. (8-cm) lengths.
ITALIAN SAUSAGE WITH SPINACH AND PROVOLONE Prepare sweet Italian sausage and add 8 oz (250 g) cooked, finely chopped spinach and 8 oz (250 g) brunoise-cut sharp provolone cheese in step 13.
SWEET ITALIAN SAUSAGE For seasonings, use ½ oz (15 g) freshly ground black pepper, ½ oz (15 g) crushed fennel seeds, ⅛ oz (4 g) dried oregano, ¼ oz (7.5 g) granulated onion, ½ oz (15 g) granulated garlic, ½ oz (15 g) sweet Spanish paprika, ½ oz (15 g) crushed fennel seeds, and ½ oz (15 g) dextrose. Use 4 fl oz (125 mL) red wine and 4 fl oz (125 mL) water as the liquid. Encase in hog casings and form into a coil.
FRESH KIELBASA For seasonings, use 1 oz (30 g) freshly ground black pepper, ½ oz (15 g) dried marjoram, and 2¾ oz (85 g) minced fresh garlic. For the liquid, use lager beer. Encase in hog casings and tie off into 6-in. (15-cm) links.
HOT ITALIAN SAUSAGE Prepare sweet Italian sausage, but replace the sweet paprika with hot Hungarian paprika. Add ⅛ oz (4 g) crushed dried red chile. Use 2 fl oz (60 mL) red wine vinegar and 6 fl oz (190 mL) water as the liquid.
FRESH BRATWURST Replace half the pork with veal. For seasonings, use ½ oz (15 g) finely ground white pepper, ¼ oz (7.5 g) ground dried sage, ⅛ oz (4 g) ground mace, and ⅛ oz (4 g) ground dried ginger. Grind through the fine die. Use 1 beaten egg and 8 fl oz (250 g) heavy cream as the liquid.
SAGE BREAKFAST SAUSAGE For seasonings, use ⅛ oz (4 g) dried ground sage, oz (2 g) dried thyme, ⅛ oz (4 g) granulated onion, and ⅓ oz (10 g) freshly ground black pepper. Form into patties or encase in sheep casings tied into 3-in. (8-cm) lengths.
ITALIAN SAUSAGE WITH SPINACH AND PROVOLONE Prepare sweet Italian sausage and add 8 oz (250 g) cooked, finely chopped spinach and 8 oz (250 g) brunoise-cut sharp provolone cheese in step 13.
SWEET ITALIAN SAUSAGE For seasonings, use ½ oz (15 g) freshly ground black pepper, ½ oz (15 g) crushed fennel seeds, ⅛ oz (4 g) dried oregano, ¼ oz (7.5 g) granulated onion, ½ oz (15 g) granulated garlic, ½ oz (15 g) sweet Spanish paprika, ½ oz (15 g) crushed fennel seeds, and ½ oz (15 g) dextrose. Use 4 fl oz (125 mL) red wine and 4 fl oz (125 mL) water as the liquid. Encase in hog casings and form into a coil.
FRESH KIELBASA For seasonings, use 1 oz (30 g) freshly ground black pepper, ½ oz (15 g) dried marjoram, and 2¾ oz (85 g) minced fresh garlic. For the liquid, use lager beer. Encase in hog casings and tie off into 6-in. (15-cm) links.
HOT ITALIAN SAUSAGE Prepare sweet Italian sausage, but replace the sweet paprika with hot Hungarian paprika. Add ⅛ oz (4 g) crushed dried red chile. Use 2 fl oz (60 mL) red wine vinegar and 6 fl oz (190 mL) water as the liquid.
FRESH BRATWURST Replace half the pork with veal. For seasonings, use ½ oz (15 g) finely ground white pepper, ¼ oz (7.5 g) ground dried sage, ⅛ oz (4 g) ground mace, and ⅛ oz (4 g) ground dried ginger. Grind through the fine die. Use 1 beaten egg and 8 fl oz (250 g) heavy cream as the liquid.
GERMAN POTATO SALAD SIDE DISH
Yield: 1 qt (1 L), about 2 lb (1 kg)
Portions: 6–8
Portion size: 4–5 fl oz (120–150 mL), 4–5 oz (120–150 g)
INGREDIENTS
U.S.
METRIC
All-purpose potatoes
1½ lb
750 g
Kosher salt
to taste
to taste
Apple cider vinegar
2½ fl oz
75 mL
Sugar
2 tbsp
30 mL
Prepared brown mustard
1 tsp
5 mL
Water
3 fl oz
90 mL
Rindless smoked slab bacon, diced fine
3 oz
90 g
Yellow onion, chopped medium
5 oz
150 g
Celery, peeled, diced fine
1½ oz
45 g
Caraway seeds
½ tsp
2 mL
All-purpose flour
1 tbsp
15 mL
Corn oil
2 to 4 fl oz
60 to 120 mL
Freshly ground black pepper
to taste
to taste
Chopped parsley
¼ oz
7 g
PROCEDURE
PREPARATION
Refrigerate in a freshly sanitized, covered container up to 3 days.
FINISHING
Yield: 1 qt (1 L), about 2 lb (1 kg)
Portions: 6–8
Portion size: 4–5 fl oz (120–150 mL), 4–5 oz (120–150 g)
INGREDIENTS
U.S.
METRIC
All-purpose potatoes
1½ lb
750 g
Kosher salt
to taste
to taste
Apple cider vinegar
2½ fl oz
75 mL
Sugar
2 tbsp
30 mL
Prepared brown mustard
1 tsp
5 mL
Water
3 fl oz
90 mL
Rindless smoked slab bacon, diced fine
3 oz
90 g
Yellow onion, chopped medium
5 oz
150 g
Celery, peeled, diced fine
1½ oz
45 g
Caraway seeds
½ tsp
2 mL
All-purpose flour
1 tbsp
15 mL
Corn oil
2 to 4 fl oz
60 to 120 mL
Freshly ground black pepper
to taste
to taste
Chopped parsley
¼ oz
7 g
PROCEDURE
PREPARATION
- 1. Peel the potatoes and cut into ¾-in. (2-cm) dice.
- 2. Boil the potatoes in salted water à point (p. 91).
- 3. Drain the potatoes and spread in a hotel pan to cool slightly.
- 4. Whisk together the vinegar, sugar, mustard, and water. Set aside.
- 5. Over low heat, sauté the bacon until rendered and almost crisp.
- 6. Add the onion, celery, and caraway seeds to the fat in the pan.
- 7. Sauté until the onions and celery are tender but not brown.
- 8. Add the flour and stir over low heat for few seconds, then whisk in the vinegar mixture along with a little salt.
- 9. Simmer briskly 1–2 minutes, or until the mixture thickens.
- 10. Whisk the corn oil into the pan to make about 10 fl oz (300 mL) emulsified dressing. (The amount of corn oil needed depends on the amount of bacon drippings produced by the bacon.)
- 11. Taste and correct the seasoning to make a sweet-salty-tart dressing. Make sure to add enough salt and vinegar to balance the sweetness.
- 12. Toss the potatoes with the hot dressing.
- 13. Season with pepper.
- 11. Cool to room temperature and allow to mellow 30 minutes.
- 12. Taste and reevaluate the seasonings and mouthfeel. Make necessary corrections.
Refrigerate in a freshly sanitized, covered container up to 3 days.
FINISHING
- 13. Warm each serving in a microwave oven for a few seconds only.
- 14. Place in individual dishes, or add to a plate as a component.
- 15. Garnish each serving with parsley.
MINI-MORTADELLA Yield: 5¼ lb (2.5 kg)
INGREDIENTS
U.S.
METRIC
Finely ground white pepper
⅓ oz
10 g
Sweet Hungarian paprika
2 tsp
10 mL
Ground nutmeg
2 tsp
10 mL
Ground coriander
1 tsp
5 mL
Ground cloves
¼ tsp
1 mL
Ground bay leaf
½ tsp
2 mL
Granulated onion
1 tsp
5 mL
Granulated garlic
½ tsp
2 mL
Prague Powder #1
⅙ oz
7 g
Kosher salt
1½ oz
45 g
Dextrose
½ oz
15 g
Well-trimmed pork butt
1 lb
480 g
Trimmed veal top round
1 lb
480 g
Fresh pork jowl fat or fresh pork fatback with no rind
1 lb 5 oz
630 g
Additional fresh pork fatback with no rind
¼ lb
120 g
Black peppercorns
⅓ oz
10 g
Shelled pistachio nuts
3 oz
90 g
Crushed ice
1 lb
480 g
White wine, very cold
4 fl oz
120 mL
Nonfat dry milk powder
2⅓ oz
70 g
Beef middles, prepared and cut into 16-in. (40-cm) lengths
4 ft
1 m
Supplies
Oak or fruitwood (fabrication type and amount as specified by the smoker manufacturer)
optional
optional
PROCEDURE
DAY 1: FABRICATION AND PRE-SEASONING
Refrigerate up to 6 days.
Mortadella Classic mortadella sausage originated in Bologna, Italy. It became so popular that it was widely copied throughout the country. Much mortadella is made in the traditional Bologna style, but other localities developed their own style.
Although most Italian mortadella is not smoked, one regional specialty is lightly smoked (as is the version included here). It is this variety that became widely copied in North America, where it was given the name of the city that first made it, Bologna.
INGREDIENTS
U.S.
METRIC
Finely ground white pepper
⅓ oz
10 g
Sweet Hungarian paprika
2 tsp
10 mL
Ground nutmeg
2 tsp
10 mL
Ground coriander
1 tsp
5 mL
Ground cloves
¼ tsp
1 mL
Ground bay leaf
½ tsp
2 mL
Granulated onion
1 tsp
5 mL
Granulated garlic
½ tsp
2 mL
Prague Powder #1
⅙ oz
7 g
Kosher salt
1½ oz
45 g
Dextrose
½ oz
15 g
Well-trimmed pork butt
1 lb
480 g
Trimmed veal top round
1 lb
480 g
Fresh pork jowl fat or fresh pork fatback with no rind
1 lb 5 oz
630 g
Additional fresh pork fatback with no rind
¼ lb
120 g
Black peppercorns
⅓ oz
10 g
Shelled pistachio nuts
3 oz
90 g
Crushed ice
1 lb
480 g
White wine, very cold
4 fl oz
120 mL
Nonfat dry milk powder
2⅓ oz
70 g
Beef middles, prepared and cut into 16-in. (40-cm) lengths
4 ft
1 m
Supplies
Oak or fruitwood (fabrication type and amount as specified by the smoker manufacturer)
optional
optional
PROCEDURE
DAY 1: FABRICATION AND PRE-SEASONING
- 1. Combine the white pepper, paprika, nutmeg, coriander, cloves, bay, onion, and garlic. Label the container “seasoning mix.”
- 2. To make the curing compound, combine the Prague Powder, half the salt, and the dextrose. Add half the seasoning mix, stir well, and label the container “curing compound.”
- 3. Complete the seasoning mix by stirring in the remaining salt.
- 4. Cut the pork and veal into 1-in. (2-cm) cubes. In a nonreactive container, mix the pork and veal with the curing compound. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours.
- 5. Cut 1 lb 5 oz (0.6 kg) fat into 1-in. (2-cm) dice. Spread the fat on a sheet tray, cover the tray, and refrigerate it.
- 6. Fabricate the additional pork fatback into brunoise cuts.
- 7. Bring about 2 qt (2 L) water to the boil. Prepare a small bowl of ice water.
- 8. Place the peppercorns in a very small, heatproof container and pour about ½ cup (120 mL) boiling water over them. Allow the peppercorns to steep overnight.
- 9. Place the pistachios in a bowl and pour about 3 cups (0.75 L) boiling water over them. Drain the pistachios in a strainer and refresh them by immersing the strainer in the ice water. Lift the pistachios out of the water and place them on a clean, lint-free kitchen towel. Rub the pistachios gently in the towel to remove the skins.
- 10. Drop the brunoise fatback into the remaining boiling water, lower the heat to a bare simmer, and poach about 2 minutes, or until tender. Drain the fatback, cool it to room temperature, and refrigerate it.
- 11. Freeze the grinder parts, the bowl and blade of a commercial-size food processor, a large stainless-steel bowl, and a hotel spoon.
- 12. Place the pork fat in the freezer about 30 minutes, or until the exterior is crusted with ice crystals.
- 13. Set up the grinder and place an ice bain-marie under the grinder head.
- 14. Grind the chilled, seasoned pork and veal through the coarse, medium, and fine dies. Refrigerate it.
- 15. Grind the semifrozen pork fat through the coarse, medium, and fine dies. Refrigerate it.
- 16. Place the chilled meat in the chilled processor bowl. Add the crushed ice, wine, and seasoning mix. Begin processing immediately. Use an instant-read thermometer to monitor the temperature of the meat as it rises from 30°F to 40°F (-1°C to 4°C).
- 17. Immediately add the ground fat and process until the temperature reaches 45°F (7°C).
- 18. Immediately add the nonfat dry milk and process until the temperature reaches 58°F (14°C). Refrigerate the forcemeat.
- 19. Perform a poach test.
- 20. Evaluate and make necessary corrections.
- 21. Transfer the forcemeat to the frozen bowl set in the ice bain-marie and fold in the brunoise pork fat, drained and blotted peppercorns, and pistachios.
- 22. Encase the forcemeat to make 14-in. (35-cm) lengths, and clip or tie off.
- 23. Hang the mortadellas over a drip pan in the refrigerator for 24 hours.
- 24. Sterilize a teasing needle or knife and perforate the mortadellas at 2-in. (5-cm) intervals.
- 25. Bring enough water to cover the mortadellas to a simmer in a brazier or braising table. Place the mortadellas in the water and keep them submerged by weighting them with a lid. Poach the mortadellas at a bare simmer to an internal temperature of 150°F (65°C).
- 26. Prepare a large bowl of ice water.
- 27. Refresh the mortadellas in the ice water until they reach an internal temperature of 38°F (3°C)
- 28. Blot the mortadellas dry with paper towels. If you do not plan to smoke them, wrap the mortadellas in butcher paper and refrigerate them.
- 29. If you plan to smoke them, hang the mortadellas over a drip pan in the refrigerator overnight to form a pellicle.
- 30. If smoking, soak the wood in water to cover at room temperature overnight.
- 31. Prepare a smoker set to 80°F (26°C).
- 32. Hang the mortadellas in the smoker and smoke them 1–2 hours, or until the desired exterior color is achieved.
- 33. Shower the mortadellas under a spray of cold water until they reach an internal temperature of 38°F (3°C).
- 34. Blot the mortadellas dry with paper towels.
- 35. Wrap the mortadellas in butcher paper and refrigerate them.
Refrigerate up to 6 days.
Mortadella Classic mortadella sausage originated in Bologna, Italy. It became so popular that it was widely copied throughout the country. Much mortadella is made in the traditional Bologna style, but other localities developed their own style.
Although most Italian mortadella is not smoked, one regional specialty is lightly smoked (as is the version included here). It is this variety that became widely copied in North America, where it was given the name of the city that first made it, Bologna.